Renaissance Threads: John Galliano's Mastery in Fashion Revivals

John Galliano | Spring Summer 2019 Fashion Show

Source: Design Scene

From mom jeans and crop tops to bucket hats and tiny sunglasses, 90s and early 2000s fashion has made its way back into everyday style. But it hasn't quite stopped there - the theatrics of the runway from the 1990s to 2000s have overtaken the minimalistic approach to high-end fashion that we've seen in recent years. Can we credit this dramatic shift to new designers, or are they the same great minds that kept the dramatic flair alive in those times? While new designers like Sandy Liang replace minimalistic style with lively designs, it is also thanks to the iconic designers of the 90s that still dominate the fashion industry today. One of the most notable and influential designers of the time is John Galliano. Known for his revolutionary designs, Galliano has managed to thrive in the industry for over 35 years. Considering how much fashion changes and shifts with trends, it is remarkable that Galliano’s designs are always relevant. It can prompt anyone to ask: How does he do it? One of his best qualities as a designer is that he can look to the past and revolutionize fashion with a modern twist.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Source: John Galliano Fall 2009 | Photo: Stephane Cardinale - Corbis / Getty Images

To truly see how Galliano recycles and reinvents his designs, let's start by taking a look at his fall 2009 ready-to-wear collection. The collection was inspired by Russian Balkan folklore, with a “snowstorm” falling on the runway, creating an illusion that the models were walking through a winter fairy tale. This show is an excellent example of Galiano’s delicate romantic designs.

The clothes were only half the show. Makeup artist Pat McGrath gave the models a frostbitten look with red cheeks and smoky eyes. Like Galliano, McGrath started her career in the 90s and is still a crucial part of the fashion and beauty industry. In this show, they worked together to turn a historical folklore fantasy into a reality.

Source: John Galliano Fall 2009 |

Photo: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse

Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Couture

Even now, 15 years later, Galliano still fascinates his audiences with his theatrical runway shows. In 2014, he became the creative director of Maison Margiela, infusing the brand's deconstructivist philosophy with Galiano's flair for theatrics and historical references. In his spring 2024 couture collection, he made his models and designs look like walking paintings through the mysterious feel of the set, the extreme corsetry, and doll-like makeup and body modifications. The show gained much popularity online, reaching audiences around the world. What makes the collection so fascinating is that Galliano made a stand for creativity during a time when daring in fashion is at a low.

Source: Maison Margiela Spring 2024 |

Photo: Filippo Fior

Just like his 2009 show, Galliano was accompanied by Pat McGrath, who transformed the models into porcelain dolls. Once again, McGrath complemented his designs by using bright blush and bold lips. Taking the fashion and makeup techniques from the past, artists like John Galliano and Pat McGrath are slowly reintroducing the concept of making one’s dreams a reality on the runway. The talent that went into both collections will always be relevant as they can constantly reinvent their work without losing their unique use of color in a world of black and white. Source: Maison Margiela Spring 2024 | Photo: Pat McGrath Labs